CharlestonImage.com - Fine Art Photography | Website Design
CharlestonImage.com - Fine Art Photography | Website Design
Home  .::.  In Focus - Photography Blog
Photography Tips, Tricks, & Tutorials to
make your photos shine.
Website Design

The Plane of Critical Focus

One of the most important things to look for in a camera is how well it focuses. This is important because a lens can only bring one part of the scene into the sharpest possible focus. This part of the scene falls on what is called the plane of critical focus. Subjects falling on this plane will be the sharpest part of the picture. You move this plane toward and way from the camera as you change the focal distance.

There are three ways cameras focus: fixed focus, autofocus, and manual focus.

Fixed focus is found on the least expensive cameras, almost all camera phones, and one-time-use cameras.

Manual focus, found on SLRs and some expensive fixed lens cameras, lets you focus by turning a ring on the lens-in many situations this is the best way by far. On point and shoot cameras you often have to use buttons or dials to manually focus.

Autofocus is available on most modern cameras, and on many low-end cameras it's the only kind of focus. When you press the shutter button halfway down, the camera automatically focuses on the center of the scene or some other designated focus area. It's important that the camera do this quickly and accurately.

Autofocus often has trouble focusing on off-center subjects or on scenes with little contrast, when the object in the focus zone is brighter than the rest of the scene, when the subject is poorly illuminated, when both near and distant objects fall within the focus zone, or when the subject is moving quickly. If the camera can't focus, some cameras beep or blink a lamp. If this happens, it's best if your camera lets you use focus lock to focus on a subject at the same distance or switch to manual focus.

The image is only critically in focus within a plane. The formula that describes the relationship between plane of critical focus, lens and film is:

1 / I + 1 / O = 1 / F

...where I is the film to lens distance, O is the distance from the lens to the plane of critical focus, and F is the focal length of the lens.

In a photograph, the area of critical focus is the portion of the picture that is optically in focus. This does not relate to depth of field, which describes acceptable sharpness.

Depth of field extends away from the plane of critical focus. Reducing the size of the aperture will increase the depth of field, but the plane of critical focus will not change.
Tintype process  .::.  CharlestonImage.com - Fine Art Photography | Website Design
CharlestonImage.com - Fine Art Photography | Website Design
Home  .::.  In Focus - Photography Blog
Photography Tips, Tricks, & Tutorials to
make your photos shine.
Website Design

Tintype process

Note: The Modern Tintype is a liquid light process, that comes in a kit, much less toxic than the Classic Tintype process and more suited to beginners.

This old process was invented in the late 1800's and was one of the photographic processes that made it possible for the general public to have their portrait taken. Because Tintypes were reproduced on metals, this type of photography was comparatively cheap and photographers started offering street photography whose quick results became very popular. Tintypes were very widespread in America at the time of the American civil war and one can occasionally still find tintypes from that period on flee markets, picturing pioneers that had their photo taken before going off to the Wild West or showing small multiple images that were used by the sitter as a type of early business card.

The Tintype is a positive image on a metal plate. The process is similar to daguerreotypes and ambrotypes, which were positive images on glass that could only be seen if you placed a background such as black velvet behind them, otherwise they were negatives. With most photographic processes the surface you use (in the most conventional way photographic white paper) will be the highlights of your image and the silver emulsion will represent the different shades of black in your image. With a reversal process the support surface has to be painted black first and the light sensitive emulsion that you coat it with will give you the highlights of your image. Because the emulsion has a yellow color the contrast within the image is usually not as strong as with conventional photography (black and yellow as opposed to black and white) and as a result the image looks old and a little faded, however this inherent quality can be one reason to specifically use tintypes. Sometimes the yellowish emulsion turns into different colors ranging from red brown to green and blue, which can create stunningly beautiful effects.

As a brief overview the tintype process involves obtaining suitable metal plates, cleaning and preparing their surface, spraying the plates with black spray paint and then coating them with light sensitive emulsion and subsequently exposing the plate and developing it in special chemistry.
Sepia Toning  .::.  CharlestonImage.com - Fine Art Photography | Website Design
CharlestonImage.com - Fine Art Photography | Website Design
Home  .::.  In Focus - Photography Blog
Photography Tips, Tricks, & Tutorials to
make your photos shine.
Website Design

Sepia Toning

Sepia toning is used to create a warmer print tone. Conventional sepia toning consists of the following steps:

  • Thoroughly wash the completed black and white print
  • Soak the print in bleach until the silver image is completely converted from its metallic state,
  • Rinse the bleached print in water to remove all traces of bleach,
  • Tone the print in sepia toning solution,
  • Wash thoroughly and dry the print.

It is much easier to obtain consistent, even results if the hypo used to fix the print contains hardener. Wash times are usually extended by 50% to ensure that all traces of fixer have been removed. Any fixer which remains in the paper will reduce silver when it is placed into the bleach.

Stepwise sepia toning is a variation on the conventional toning process. The print is only partially bleached before being toned, creating a step or partial increment of toning. The effect is similar to the multi tone image (duotone). Typically, the shadows remain black while the midtones of the image are a warm brown color. This gives the toned image a little more punch due to slightly greater shadow contrast. The following processing steps occur:

  • Thoroughly wash the completed black and white print,
  • Soak the print in a dilute bleach solution while providing gentle agitation,
  • At a point when the silver is partially converted, remove the print and wash thoroughly,
  • Tone the print in sepia toner until all bleached silver is toned,
  • Wash thoroughly and dry the print.
This stepwise toning process can be iterated to create tritones and quadtones. This is accomplished by bleaching a layer of silver and toning one color, then bleaching the next layer of silver and toning it a different color. This iterated approach gives even greater control over image toning. When done carefully the results can be quite impressive. Unfortunately, the process is very time consuming and finicky.
Using a Polarizing Filter  .::.  CharlestonImage.com - Fine Art Photography | Website Design
CharlestonImage.com - Fine Art Photography | Website Design
Home  .::.  In Focus - Photography Blog
Photography Tips, Tricks, & Tutorials to
make your photos shine.
Website Design

Using a Polarizing Filter

Of all the filters available, a polarizing filter is the first one you should buy to improve your photography.

Polarizing filters can darken blue skies (turning them a deep, rich blue) and are great for removing reflections in water. They're also good with foliage, making leaves less shiny (again, cutting down on reflections). Color saturation is enhanced with almost any subject. No other filter can provide this!

The polarizing filter does one thing and one thing well - it removes reflections from non-metallic surfaces:

By eliminating the reflection of light on the tiny water droplets present in the atmosphere the polarizer brings more saturated and slightly darker skies.

By eliminating reflections, the polarizing filter will tend to make water and other reflective surfaces more transparent. The effect will also vary depending on the angle to the reflective surface. If you place your camera very low above a river, the effect will be very limited. If you shoot from a bridge above it, the water will look totally transparent.

A polarizing filter reduces reflection from surfaces and makes colors appear more intense. It also tends to make shadow areas darker.

The downside of a polarizing filter is that it absorbs 1.5 stops of exposure. So, if you shoot at 1/180th of a second and then add the filter, you will find yourself at 1/60th of a second. This happens whatever the orientation for a polarizer. In low light situations, some type of camera support, such as a tripod, will be needed.
Share/Bookmark This Page Follow CharlestonImage on twitter Become a Fan on Facebook! In Focus - Photography Blog Subscribe via RSS Subscribe By Email
Website Design - Latest Sites
In Focus - Photography Blog
Anatomy of Design: CSS 101

Home Portfolio Edition Prints Website Design In Focus Anatomy of Design About Contact

Hosting provided by Doteasy.com

Privacy Policy Valid HTML
©2005-2010 CharlestonImage.com. All Rights Reserved.

CharlestonImage.com